One Night in Hakone Gora Byakudan: The Perfect Ryokan Retreat in Japan

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Tucked into the forested hills, Hakone is where Japan slows down — and reveals some of its most magical contrasts. Think misty mountains and open-air art, steaming onsen baths and crisp lake breezes, ancient shrines and futuristic cable cars. It’s where you can soak in a volcanic hot spring with Mount Fuji watching quietly in the distance.

Hakone is a rare blend of natural beauty, cultural depth, and easy accessibility. Additionally, it delivers a deeply restorative and authentically Japanese experience. If you’re planning a trip to Japan and want to escape the pace, Hakone is a must-visit. In particular, it is a perfect pocket of peace and wonder that captures Japan at its most timeless.

For us, what truly elevated the experience was our stay at Hakone Gora Byakudan. With only a handful of suites — each featuring a private open-air onsen with views of the surrounding forest — this luxurious ryokan offered exactly what we came to Hakone for: serenity, seclusion, and that unmistakable sense of Japanese hospitality. To illustrate, we chronicle what made Hakone Gora Byakudan the perfect one night escape. Our stay at Hakone Gora Byakudan was an unforgettable experience — in fact, it topped our list of favourite moments in Japan. You can see why in our Best Things to Do in Japan: The Ultimate Guide.

After four unforgettable nights in Kyoto, we set off for a one night retreat in Hakone before heading to Tokyo. With a large suitcase and two carry-ons in tow, we weren’t exactly travelling light. Pro tip: Enter one of Japan’s most underrated travel hacks – takuhaibin, the country’s ultra reliable luggage forwarding service. For just ¥3,500, we sent our big suitcase straight to our Airbnb in Tokyo. If you’re staying at a hotel, it’s even easier — just ask the front desk to receive your luggage. It’s seamless, secure, and saves you the hassle of dragging bags across platforms and buses.

Wanting to maximise our time in Hakone, we boarded the 10:00 AM Shinkansen from Kyoto to Odawara. If you’re booking online and travelling with large luggage, be sure to reserve an oversized baggage seat. While overhead racks can fit large suitcases, they’re often a tight squeeze and can feel precarious at 300 km/h. Another hot tip: sit on the left side of the train when making your journey from Kyoto to Hakone — on clear days, Mt Fuji makes a cameo as you slice through the landscape.

At Odawara Station, we stopped for lunch at a humble, family run restaurant tucked just a few minutes away. No English menus, no fuss — just the kind of place locals line up for. We ordered two sushi platters and a few skewers of yakitori with adventurous and bold flavours. It was simple, soulful food — the kind that fills you up in all the right ways.

From there, we boarded the local J01 (or J03) bus to Gora. It’s a winding 40 minute ride through hills and forests — and we were immensely grateful we weren’t hauling our large suitcase along for it. The bus drops you just a short walk from Hakone Gora Byakudan, but even in those few steps, you can sense something shift. The air is quieter and cooler. Additionally, the trees feel taller and the world slower already.

You step into the ryokan’s entrance and are immediately greeted by a soaring glass atrium that frames the surrounding mountains — a quiet, cinematic welcome. Check-in is a ritual of its own, complete with a delicate matcha tea and red bean dessert. In that moment, any trace of the morning’s travel just melts away.

Nearby, a small refreshment nook offers complimentary coffee and tea, perfect for a peaceful pause. Nominate your preferred dinner time, and a staff member guides you to your room — where the outside world slips away.

The room is a seamless blend of modern elegance and timeless tradition. Slide open the door and step into a quiet genkan (foyer), where soft lighting and natural textures set the tone. To one side, a spacious bathroom and closet create a gentle buffer between the entrance and the living space beyond. Hanging neatly inside: crisp cotton yukata — yours to slip into and truly settle into the ryokan rhythm.

Beyond the shoji-style sliding doors, the bedroom opens up with understated grace. Floor to ceiling windows stretch across the far wall, framing a view of lush forest and revealing the private open air onsen just steps beyond. Additionally, the bathing area — complete with a standing shower — flows effortlessly onto the patio.

Twin beds sit perfectly turned down, flanked by his-and-hers amenities, while a mini-fridge offers a thoughtful selection of complimentary refreshments. Finally, a Bluetooth speaker adds a modern touch, letting you soundtrack your stay in whatever mood you choose. As you settle into your private onsen, gazing out into the whispering woods, it becomes clear — this isn’t just accommodation. Unquestionably, it’s a retreat.

The ryokan offers a communal onsen from 10 PM through the night, but it does not allow entrance if you have tattoos. However, with your very own hot spring, there’s no need for compromise — only quiet, uninterrupted bliss.

A kaiseki dinner isn’t just a meal — it’s an art form, a quiet ceremony where every dish tells a story, and time seems to slow with each course. At Hakone Gora Byakudan, the experience is elevated into something truly unforgettable. Served in a dining room where tables are separated by shoji screens, the setting was intimate, with warm lighting and a view of the forest just beyond the window — a reminder of the seasons that inspire every bite.

From the moment the first tray arrived, the care and craftsmanship were evident. Small, delicate starters awakened the palate. This was followed by sashimi, so fresh and finely sliced it seemed to melt on contact. Then came a succession of courses that balanced flavour, texture, and temperature: a gently simmered broth, a grilled dish, a tempura course so light it crackled, and a slow-cooked specialty that warmed from within.

Each plate was presented with precision, garnished with leaves or flowers in keeping with the season — in our case, a gentle nod to early summer. The pace of the meal was deliberate, unhurried, allowing every dish to be appreciated for what it was: an ode to nature, time, and tradition. And just when we thought it couldn’t get more indulgent, dessert arrived. Paired with a sake flute, and served with the quiet grace the staff seemed to embody effortlessly, it was the kind of dining experience that lingers long after the final sip. Subsequently, after finishing dinner, you’re welcome to enjoy unlimited spirits and sake in the reception foyer until 11 PM.

The next morning, we were greeted with a beautifully presented traditional Japanese breakfast — a multi-course spread that felt like a gentle continuation of the previous night’s elegance. Small, seasonal dishes filled the tray: grilled fish, tamagoyaki (Japanese omelette), pickled vegetables, miso soup, and a bowl of perfectly steamed rice. Every bite was thoughtful, balanced, and deeply satisfying — the kind of meal that grounds you in the day ahead. Additionally, the sparkling wine continued to flow in the reception foyer until 10 AM, offering one last toast to an unforgettable stay before check-out. Undoubtedly, it was the perfect farewell: light, luxurious, and unmistakably Hakone.

After a soul-soothing escape in Hakone, we left feeling recharged, reconnected, and deeply reminded of Japan’s ability to blend nature, hospitality, and timeless tradition. Whether it was soaking in our private onsen under a forested sky, savouring an elegant kaiseki dinner, or sipping sparkling wine in a lobby framed by mountain views — every detail felt intentionally designed to slow us down and lift us up. As we boarded the train toward Tokyo, Hakone stayed with us — not just as a destination, but as a feeling: one of quiet luxury, stillness, and pure Japanese serenity.